Having a good set of shirts will take you far in this live, and although it’s not a sin these days to wear a tee-shirt with your suit, shirts are certainly a more dressed up look.
I recommend 100% cotton, which will last longer than almost any other fabric. Although it creases easier than a polyester (or poly-cotton) it breaths easier and doesn’t retain moisture as badly as silk. Linen does breath easier, but can be scratchy is impossible to keep pressed.
Your collar (when buttoned up) should fit snug around your neck while allowing one finger to pass around between the collar and your neck comfortably. The fit of the collar can only be altered about 1cm smaller or larger, so getting a good fit here is important. You can also cheat with elasticated collar extenders if you struggle to feel comfortable in a tie.
A shirt’s shoulder is less important than that of your suit (and also easier to alter), but for the greatest comfort and mobility it should sit on top of your shoulder with a high armhole.
Your cuffs should cover the wrist entirely without falling over the hand. I like to lift my thumb when my arm is at rest, and if it *just pushes up the cuff that’s the perfect length. Collars and cuffs are a great place to incorporate some uniqueness in your shirts, so don’t be afraid to try different options and combinations here.
The length of your shirt will vary with style. Generally straight hems are shorter and worn untucked, while curved hems are longer and remain more easily tucked throughout the day. If you want to stay tucked all say having the correct length is important, you can also use stays.
The chest, waist and seat area should fit comfortable, with enough room to move but no sagging fabric. Depending on your body and taste, back darts can give a great look and fit, but do restrict movement a bit especially when you sit.
– More on Suits –
—Intro, 10 things you should know– Brief History of Suits – Suit Fit, The Trousers – Suit Fit, the Jacket – Suit Fit, the Waistcoat – Suit Fit, the Shirt — Off the Peg Suits – Made to Measure Suits – Bespoke Suits – Some Suit Mistakes –