Suits (of armor) have, and always will be a gentleman’s best defense navigating the world. The first (and only real) rule is that the suit must work for you. Suits can seem monotonous, but you are unique and what works for one person will not necessarily work for another. A suit should brings you comfort and style in the proportions that you desire.
In the office, at a wedding, or on your general errands, good style means dressing appropriately. It may be acceptable to wear just trousers and a shirt in one setting, or jacket with jeans in another, while the full suit is required for other occasions.
With an increasing move to remote working, relaxed corporate dress codes, the suit’s ceremonial function maintains its supernatural ability to make anyone look respectable.
Second, choose wool
Wool breaths easier and shapes to your body over time. It is more expensive and harder to clean but is the best option for durability and comfort. Cotton is less comfortable but harder wearing and creases more. Linen is great for breath-ability, but looses it’s shape easily and is difficult to clean. Polyester suits are not a sin, though the fabric does not breath well it is easy to clean and reasonably long lasting.
Third fusing is certainly NOT your friend
Heat applied fusing gives shape and stability to a suit, and over time the glue will perish and the fusing begin to bubble. There is no solution other than patching over affected areas. Better suits use less fusing and more floating canvases to achieve the rigidity of the suit. These layers move better with the body and are more comfortable to wear.
Know that sizing is in free fall
Due to the globalized nature of the fashion industry, there is no uniform metric by which clothing sizes are determined. It’s always best to fit clothes before purchasing, and know your measurements when shopping online.
Fifth definitely remove any visible tacks
Tacks are the temporary stitches holding vents, cuffs, and labels in place. These are all designed to be removed and should be. Unless you’re la Saper, then it’s the style to flex with the authentic retail tags and tacks of luxury brands.
Six, technically the stitches closing your pockets are also tacks, but can be left in place. They prevent the pockets from draping over time, maintaining the look of your jacket. Many men leave their pockets closed, I like them open, it’s a free country.
Tip seven: Tailoring is always worth it
Suit’s are a silent language, and the more you understand it the easier it will be to communicate. Though rules of fit are not cast in stone, they do exist for a reason.
As a start the correct sleeve and hem length will hide a million other sins. And a good set of buttons can elevate an economical suit to look more expensive for next to nothing. Custom tailoring opens up so many options not available for retail, so if you’re looking for something unique the options are limitless. These suits do take time to make, but are always worth the wait.
Number nine, if you enjoy accessorizing, limit yourself to one iconic piece that compliments your suit, and have the remaining accessories more plain. Again, this rule does not apply to la Saper, then the extravagance of multiple accessories is the look you’re going for!
Lastly, sustainable is the new black
Raid your father’s wardrobe, the thrift store, the dumpster! Recycling old suits will never go out of style, and maintaining the clothes we already have is the most sustainable thing we can do for the planet.
– More on Suits –
—Introduction to suits– Brief History of Suits – Suit Fit, The Trousers – Suit Fit, the Jacket – Suit Fit, the Waistcoat – Suit Fit, the Shirt — Off the Peg Suits – Made to Measure Suits – Bespoke Suits – Some Suit Mistakes –