1. It must work for you
Suits can seem monotonous, but you are unique and what works for one person will not necessarily work for another. Choose a suit that brings you comfort and style in the proportions that you want.
2. Wool is Your Friend
Wool breaths easier and will shape to your body over time. It is harder to clean but will last for years if taken care of. Cotton does not feel so comfortable, though it is harder wearing. Linen is great for the summer, but it looses it’s shape easily and is difficult to press and clean. Polyester suits are not a sin, the fabric does not breath well, but is easy to clean and reasonably long lasting.
3. Fusing is certainly NOT your Friend
Heat applied fusing gives shape and stability to the suit, and over time the glue will perish and the fusing begin to bubble. Unfortunatelythere is no solution once this process has begun. Better suits use less fusing and more hand-attached canvas and horsehair, so look out for this when buying a suit.
4. Sizing is in Free Fall
Due to the globalized nature of the industry, there is no single uniform metric by which clothing sizes are determined. It’s best to fit the clothes before purchasing, or get the assistance of someone in the store who knows how their sizing works.
5. Tacks are Tacky
Tacks are temporary stitches holding something in place, like the ends of your vents and the designer labels on your sleeves. These are all designed to be very easily removed, and should be after purchase.
6. Your Pockets can be Opened
Technically these stitches are also tacks, but they deserve separate mention. They prevent the suit from draping on the hanger at retail, and later through heavy objects. Many men leave them this way. to help keep the form of the suit, I like them open, it’s a free country.
7. Tailoring is definitely Worth It
Having your suit fit correctly to your body will make it work better for you according to your specific work / life situation.
8. Correct Sleeve and Hem Length will Hide a Million Other Sins
So if you’re on a budget don’t fret too much about the rest of the suit. A good set of buttons will also make a cheap suit look more expensive, but you didn’t hear it from me.
9. Custom tailoring is slow and expensive, but worth it
If you’re thinking of having a suit made, it’s best to start planning well in advance. Custom clothes require repeat visits to your tailor, but will fit like nothing you could possibly buy retail. Well made suits will also last for years, giving you that newfound comfort well into the future.
10. Sustainable is the new Black
Go raid your father’s wardrobe and have his suits altered for you. Maintaining the clothes we already have is the most sustainable thing we can do.
Want to know something specific about suits? Ask away…
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