1. It must work for you
Suits can seem monotonous, but you are unique and what works for one person will not necessarily work for another. Always choose what brings you the most comfort and style in the proportions that suit you.
2. Wool is Your Friend
Wool breaths easier and will shape to your body over time. It is harder to clean but will last for years if taken care of. Cotton does not feel so comfortable, though it is harder wearing. Linen is great for the summer, but it looses it’s shape easily and is difficult to press and clean. Polyester suits are not a sin, the fabric does not breath well, but is easy to clean and reasonably long lasting.
3. Fusing is certainly NOT your Friend
Heat applied fusing gives shape and stability to the suit, and over time the glue will perish and the fusing begin to bubble. Unfortunately no, there is no solution once this process has begun. Better suits use less fusing and more hand-attached canvas and horsehair, so look out for this when buying a suit.
4. Sizing is in Free Fall
Due to the globalized nature of the industry, there is no single uniform metric by which clothing sizes are determined. Really the best is to fit the clothes on before purchasing, or get the assistance of someone in the store who knows how their sizing system works.
5. Tacks are Tacky
Tacks are temporary stitches holding something in place, like the tips of your vents and the designer labels on your sleeves. These are all designed to be very easily removed, and should be.
6. Your Pockets can be Opened
Technically the stitches closing your pockets are also just temporary tacks, but they do deserve separate mention. They prevent the suit from draping on the hanger at retail, and many men leave them this way. I like them open, it’s a free country.
7. Tailoring is definitely Worth It
Having your suit (and other clothes) fit perfectly to your work / life is a tailor’s every waking thought.
8. Correct Sleeve and Hem Length will Hide a Million Other Sins
And a new set of buttons will upgrade your suit for SO cheap but you didn’t hear it from me.
9. Custom tailoring is slow and expensive, but worth it
If you’re thinking of having a suit made, it’s best to start planning well in advance. Custom clothes require repeat visits to your tailor, but will fit like nothing you could possibly buy retail. In addition, well made suits can last for years, giving you that newfound comfort well into the future.
10. Sustainable is the new Black
First raid your father’s wardrobe and have his suits altered for you. Maintaining the clothes we already have is the most sustainable thing we can do.
Want to know something specific about suits? Ask me in the comments.
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