Whether you’re wearing a pair of custom trousers, or something you fished out of the thrift store, wearing trousers instead of jeans (or heaven forbid sweatpants) always makes for a good look.
The Waistband should fit snugly, with one finger fitting tightly between the waistband and your body. This allows for a comfortable fit with an un-tucked shirt, and a snug fit when tucked. Most modern trousers sit just below the hips bones, with high-waisted trousers considered more luxury and old fashioned.
Most retail trousers have beltloops for (you guessed it) your belt, while custom trousers generally have adjustment straps. Trousers that are a little big are more comfortable and minimizes the disaster of temporarily gaining weight. Most retail trousers these days are made with additional fabric in the center back, and can be easily adjusted larger or smaller.
The Crotch should fit comfortably. The higher the crotch, the easier the trouser legs move with the body, creating less strain on the fabric over time, and being more comfortable. Bespoke connoisseurs get their trousers tailored to the side they dress, but for retail the crotch of the trousers should be about a thumb below the danger zone for maximum comfort.
Different Darts, Pleats and Pockets work better for certain shapes and tastes, so find what works for you. In general, a larger seat needs more darts, and larger gents move easier with pleats.
Pleats are a beautiful statement, and bring formality to the pants, but can be tough to pair with the tapered / skinny look in vogue at the moment.
Get the Hem that works for you, personally I a like a full to half break, although I can’t stop loving the modern trend for shorter trouser hems.
At the end of the day, what matters most with trousers is that they look good and feel comfortable moving with you throughout the day.
– More on Suits –
—Intro, 10 things you should know– Brief History of Suits – The Trouser’s Fit – Suit Fit, the Jacket – Suit Fit, the Waistcoat – Suit Fit, the Shirt — Off the Peg Suits – Made to Measure Suits – Bespoke Suits – Some Suit Mistakes –
The Green Tailor 