Whether you’re a bespoke kind of guy, or scoring at the thrift store, here are some things to consider about your Jacket’s Fit.
The collar is virtually impossible to alter, so ensure that the lapel style and width is to your taste. The collar should allow a finger to pass snugly around your neck when worn with a shirt, and should not leave a gap at the side of your neck.
Shoulder fit is key to style and comfort, it should feel as if the shoulder terminates on the bone of your shoulder, and look as if it terminates about 2cm beyond this point. You should be able to move your arms around with comfort and without destroying the style of the suit.
The modern slim fit trend likes the waist to taper, especially if your natural waist doesn’t. For a more relaxed and boxy look, a straight cut jacket is more comfortable.
Officially the cuff of the sleeve should terminate at the top of the outer wrist bone when your arm is at rest. This will leave about an inch of your shirt showing. I find this can ride up through the day and feel a bit short when giving high-fives (do people still do this?). I thus recommend the cuff to cover the outer wrist bone, leaving only a 1/4 inch of shirt showing when your arm is at rest.
The lapel should lie flat against your chest when buttoned up, which can be difficult in an off-the-rack suit. Bespoke suits shape this section by hand, curving it against your chest with pad stitching.
The length of your jacket must be comfortable, and can be (rather easily) adjusted for retail suits. Officially the hem must sit in the crook of your fingers when your arm is at rest, but having it shorter is not a sin, especially in warmer climates.
– More on Suits –
—Intro, 10 things you should know– Brief History of Suits – The Trouser’s Fit – The Jacket’s Fit – Suit Fit, the Waistcoat – Suit Fit, the Shirt — Off the Peg Suits – Made to Measure Suits – Bespoke Suits – Some Suit Mistakes –
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The Green Tailor 