10 Steps to looking excellent when dressing dapper.
Suits have, and always will be a gentleman’s best armor. Nothing quite elevates a man’s look like a well tailored suit in which he feels comfortable and confident. Suits can seem monotonous, but you are unique and what works for one person will not necessarily work for another. A suit should bring you comfort and style in the proportions that you desire. Here are some basic rules for looking your best when you turn up in a suit.
The First (and only) Rule is that the suit must work for you.
In the office, at a wedding, or on your general errands, good style means dressing appropriately. It may be acceptable to wear trousers and a shirt in one setting, or a jacket with jeans in another, while the full suit is appropriate for other occasions.
Focusing on what makes you feel confident, comfortable and gets compliments will develop your style into a unique look.
Second, choose wool
Wool breathes easier and shapes to your body over time. It is more expensive and harder to clean but is the best option for durability and comfort. Cotton is less comfortable but harder wearing and creases more. Linen is great for breath-ability, but looses it’s shape easily and is difficult to clean. Polyester suits are not a sin, they are easy to clean and reasonably long lasting, though the fabric does not breath well .
Third, fusing is certainly NOT your friend
The forepart of a suit (also the collar and cuffs of your shirts, fyi) require stiffening to achieve their desired shape. High quality suits use a floating canvas of horsehair to achieve the rigidity required. This technique is more flexible and moves with your body for maximum comfort. Heat applied fusing, on the other hand, gives a stiffer shape and rigidity to a suit. Over time the glue will perish and the fusing begin to bubble. There is no solution other than patching over affected areas.
4. Know that sizing is in free fall
Due to the globalized nature of the fashion industry, there is no uniform metric by which clothing sizes are determined. If you have the head space to remember which size works for you from which brand, always be cautious, because it’s really just arbitrary numbers. It’s best to fit your clothes before purchasing, and know your measurements when shopping online. Having a good relationship with your tailor will also help to adjust your suit for a perfect fit.
Fifth, definitely remove any visible tacks
Tacks are the temporary stitches holding vents, cuffs, and labels in place. These are all designed to be removed, and should be! Unless you’re la Saper, then it’s the style to flex with the authentic retail tags and tacks of luxury brands. But you’d need to have mortgaged your house to purchase the suit and wear it only in slums for this look to work.
6. Except the tacks that you want to keep
Technically the stitches closing your pockets are also tacks, but these can be left in place. They prevent the pockets from draping over time, maintaining the silhouette of your jacket. Many men leave their pockets closed for this reason, I like them open for functionality, it’s a free country.
7. Tailoring is always worth it
Suits are a silent language, and the more you understand the easier it will be to communicate. Though rules of fit are not cast in stone, they do exist for a reason. Having something adjusted, or made for you, will allow you to make it unique to your style and personality.
As a start the correct sleeve and trouser length will hide a million other sins. And a good set of buttons can easily elevate an economical suit to look more expensive. Custom tailoring opens up so many options not available with retail, so if you’re looking for something as unique as yourself the options are limitless.
8. Don’t Over-Accessorize
If you enjoy accessorizing, try limit yourself to one iconic piece that compliments your suit, and have the remaining accessories more plain. Again, this rule does not apply to la Saper, then the extravagance of multiple accessories is the look you’re going for! But generally you’re trying to avoid the Christmas tree effect of too many colours, stick to three at max.
Ninth, consider bespoke
Having a suit made for you will ensure that it works for your taste and body. Bespoke suits can last a lifetime, and have additional fabric tucked away to make room for adjustments. A good tailor will also include a floating chest piece, which is super comfortable and won’t ever bubble.
10. Lastly, Sustainable is the New Black
Raid your father’s wardrobe, the thrift store, the dumpster! Recycling old suits will never go out of style; maintaining the clothes we already have is the most sustainable thing we can do for the planet. And since suits have been classic for a few hundred years, there’re plenty of options when it comes to old clothes for men.
– If you want to know more about the world of Bespoke, these articles are for you –
— Brief History of Suits – Suit Fit, The Trousers – Suit Fit, the Jacket – Suit Fit, the Waistcoat – Suit Fit, the Shirt — Off the Peg Suits – Made to Measure Suits – Bespoke Suits – Some Suit Mistakes –
The Green Tailor 