Whether you’re a bespoke kind of guy, or scoring at the thrift store, here are six things to think about when considering Jackets.
1 – The Collar should allow a finger to pass easily around your neck. Making the collar tighter or looser around the neck is near impossible, so try and get a good fit here.
2 – Shoulder fit is key to style and comfort. It should feel as if the shoulder terminates on the bone of your shoulder, and look as if it terminates 2cm beyond this point. Do move your arms around and make sure it’s comfortable and doesn’t destroy the style of the suit.
3 – The waist of the jacket should taper, especially if your waist doesn’t.
4 – I like Jacket Sleeves to cover half the wrist. But if the armhole of the jacket is too low, the sleeve shoots up during high fives (do people still do this?). Here a cuff that covers the wrist is better.
5 – The Lapel should match your taste and dimentions. Also a very difficult section to alter, unless you’re just adding trim, then there are NO limits!!
Check that the lapel lies flat without puckers when buttoned up, as adjustments here are near to impossible.
6 – Jacket Length must be comfortable, and can be adjusted. Officially the hem must sit in the crook of your fingers when your arm is at rest, but having it shorter is not a sin, especially in warmer climates.
At the end of the day, what matters most is that the Jacket looks good and feels comfortable for you.
– More on Suits –
—Intro, 10 things you should know– Brief History of Suits – Suit Fit, The Trousers – Suit Fit, the Jacket – Suit Fit, the Waistcoat – Suit Fit, the Shirt — Off the Peg Suits – Made to Measure Suits – Bespoke Suits – Some Suit Mistakes –